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Atlantic pollock

The long-term outlook for pollock stocks on this side of the North Atlantic is somewhat optimistic

In the beginning, there was Atlantic pollock. Fast-fish fryers looking for a cheap alternative to cod thought this member of the cod family would be their ticket to better margins.

Even McDonald’s gave Atlantic pollock a try in the mid-1970s. But the big chain backed off when customers started wondering why their Filet-O-Fish looked a little gray.

“In cod we trust,” vowed the burger baron, after its pollock ploy left a sour taste.

So what’s wrong with Atlantic pollock? In a word: color. The reason McDonald’s and other fryers have steered clear of Atlantic pollock is because of the distinct gray cast to its flesh. And that’s too bad, because a lot of people who know this fish actually prefer the taste of Atlantic pollock to that of cod or to the ubiquitous Alaska pollock.

“It has a firmer texture and more flavor than cod,” says a buyer on Maine’s Portland Fish Exchange.

“It’s much more flavorful,” adds a Norwegian importer, who re-members summers spent cooking saithe, as this fish is called on the other side of the Atlantic, on the beach of a fjord.

It’s not that the seafood industry hasn’t tried to promote this fish. The Norwegians, who have the largest Atlantic pollock fishery, have spent a small fortune trying to move saithe up the culinary ladder.

In 1997, the Norwegians paid 110 restaurants in France and Belgium, 80 of which had one or more Michelin stars, to promote saithe. They even hired legendary French chef Paul Bocuse to hold a cooking seminar at his castle near Lyon to teach chefs how to cook saithe with, say, a lobster mousse.

On this side of the Atlantic, New England and Canadian processors have resorted to the name game to polish pollock’s downscale image. Names such as Boston bluefish, blue cod and even blue snapper have been used over the years to push Atlantic pollock, much to the dismay of the Food and Drug Administration, which insists Atlantic pollock must be sold simply as pollock.

The problem with calling Atlantic pollock “pollock,” though, is that the name can be confusing. When you mention pollock these days, most people think you’re talking about Alaska pollock, which is now used in everything from fish sticks to surimi. Even McDonald’s, along with all the other quick-service chains, got over its pollock phobia and switched from cod to Alaska pollock, which has flesh almost as white as cod and costs less than either cod or Atlantic pollock.

And if you’re talking pollock in the North Atlantic, there are actually two species called pollock: Atlantic pollock, Pollachius virens and pollock, Pollachius pollachius. Of the two pollocks caught in the Atlantic, the fishery for P. virens, which is found on both sides of the North Atlantic, is much larger than the fishery for P. pollachius, which is caught only off Europe. In addition to the saithe, Europeans use the names coalfish and coley for Atlantic pollock.

In the western Atlantic, pollock is found from Newfoundland to North Carolina, but almost all the catch comes from the Gulf of Maine and Canada’s Scotian Shelf. Although pollock are landed year-round, mainly as a bycatch, the bulk of the catch comes in the winter when the fish school to spawn and New England groundfish boats target the species.

In Norway and Iceland, saithe are landed year-round, but in Norway, landings peak during the summer, when seiners target saithe in the fjords.

In an effort to give Atlantic pollock a fresh start and avoid the confusion about which pollock is which, the largest U.S. importer of Icelandic product now simply calls it saithe, citing it as a member of the cod family to avoid any reference to the name pollock. And to improve its eye appeal, the company promotes the fact that its saithe is deep-skinned.

In spite of the effort over the years, Atlantic pollock is still a sleeper fish and largely under-appreciated. But some buyers are taking another look. With the price of Alaska pollock fillets poised to go still higher because of the lack of Russian production, and with hoki quotas being cut in New Zealand, some Norwegian processors think saithe’s time has finally arrived.

This summer two Norwegian exporters claimed they are about to hit pay dirt with deep-skinned saithe fillets, which they have introduced to fast-fish fryers, including Captain D’s of Nashville, Tenn., the second-largest operator in the fast-casual-seafood category.

The Norwegian companies are claiming they will sell 500 metric tons of the “revolutionary” fillets in the United States this year and 2,000 metric tons next year. They are calling for other Norwegian companies to jump on the bandwagon, because, claim the two exporters, demand will be so great they won’t be able to supply enough.

While the Norwegians may be a little giddy with optimism, more foodservice operators can be expected to take another look at Atlantic pollock. It offers an increasingly attractive alternative to cod or Alaska pollock, as Atlantic pollock cooks up almost as white as those species.

The future of Atlantic pollock in the retail case will likely remain more limited. It lacks the visual appeal of fish like cod or haddock, and because it is only available fresh in limited quantities most of the year, most retailers are not willing to invest the time and energy to promote it. 

Supply outlook

The Atlantic pollock resource is quite large, with landings exceeding 450,000 metric tons in good years. Norway is by far the largest producer, typically accounting for anywhere from one-half to two-thirds of the catch.

On this side of the Atlantic, U.S. and Canadian catches of Atlantic pollock have declined substantially from their peak levels of the mid-1980s, when more than 70,000 metric tons a year were landed. Combined landings the past few years have averaged about 10,000 metric tons, about equally divided between the United States and Canada.

Maine and Massachusetts produce more than 85 percent of the U.S. landings. In Canada, almost 90 percent of the Atlantic pollock catch is landed by Nova Scotia boats, primarily small draggers and gillnetters.

The long-term outlook for Atlantic pollock on this side of the North Atlantic is somewhat optimistic, although stocks remain at historically low levels. In New England, there are encouraging signs that seasonal closures and restrictions on fishing effort are beginning to pay off.

After years of relatively low landings and strict conservation measures, the U.S. resource should be able to support annual catches of 10,000 to 20,000 metric tons. Look for landings this year to remain in the 4,000 to 6,000-metric-ton range.

The Canadian pollock resource remains in rough shape. The quota for 2001 is at 9,800 metric tons, the lowest level in more than 20 years. As recently as 1998, the quota was 20,000 metric tons.

It is also unlikely that Canadian boats will catch their full pollock quota again this year. The large trawlers have not been able to catch enough pollock to make fishing this species worthwhile. As a result, Canadian landings should be about 5,000 metric tons again this year.

Iceland has also seen its saithe catches drop sharply. Since 1995, catches have declined from about 70,000 metric tons to about 30,000 metric tons, which has been the average catch of the past few years. The quota for the 2001-02 fishing year remains at 30,000 metric tons. Given the current condition of the resource, it is unlikely that the Icelandic quota will be increased soon.

Norwegian catches of Atlantic pollock, which have averaged approximately 200,000 metric tons in recent years, should come in slightly below that level in 2001, as catches from the summer seine fishery appeared to be running below average.

Supplies of imported frozen Atlantic pollock were down substantially for the first half of 2001, falling from 1,100 metric tons to about 620 metric tons. Imports from Iceland fell from 800 metric tons to 520 metric tons, while imports from Norway fell from 290 metric tons to just 93 metric tons.

However, imports of fresh Atlan-tic pollock from Canada increased from 575 metric tons to 710 metric tons for the first half of 2001. 

Price trends

Fresh skinless, boneless Atlantic pollock fillets typically average between $1.75 and $2 a pound, f.o.b. New England, to distributors. At certain times, prices can reach $2.50 a pound or higher when demand exceeds supply.

Fresh prices are normally at their low point during the early summer and late fall, when catches peak. The highest prices are normally in the spring, especially during Easter, when demand from ethnic markets in New York drives prices up.

Look for fresh prices to remain in their typical price range in 2002, as supplies of fresh product should be adequate to meet existing demand.

Prices for frozen skinless, boneless Atlantic pollock fillets vary considerably, depending upon the size of the fillets and whether or not they have been deep-skinned. Small (under 5 ounces) Norwegian-origin FAS fillets can be purchased from importers for as little as $1.10 a pound, which makes them about the same price as small single-frozen Alaska pollock fillets.

High-quality, deep-skinned Atlantic pollock fillets run anywhere from $1.50 to $1.75 a pound, ex-importer. Depending upon the spec, portions can run as much as 25 cents a pound higher.

As long as catches remain at their current levels, look for frozen Atlantic pollock fillets to trade within their current price range for 2002. 

Buying tips

Atlantic pollock are caught by several methods by a variety of boats, from small inshore vessels to big deep-sea trawlers. As a result, the quality can vary considerably, so be sure to ask a lot of questions about where and how it was caught when buying this fish for the first time.

Conventional wisdom is that FAS fish — frozen just minutes after it’s caught — is the best quality money can buy. And in many cases, it’s true. But not always.

Atlantic pollock and other groundfish that are filleted and frozen pre-rigor will have a much firmer texture, argues a Norwegian importer who sells both FAS and shore-frozen Atlantic pollock. He prefers the high-quality shore-frozen product, which is held on ice and filleted post rigor. The shore-frozen fillets, he says, will have a much nicer flake and a more succulent texture.

When buying frozen Atlantic pollock fillets, the best advice is to try a variety of product from a number of suppliers, cook it up with your best customers and make the comparisons together.

When it comes to fresh Atlantic pollock from Canada and New England, conventional wisdom also maintains that gillnetted groundfish, which die shortly after they gill themselves and may soak for several days until the nets are retrieved, are inferior to trawl-caught fish that are hauled aboard, bled, gutted and iced. While that’s often true, it’s not a universal truth.

Pollock have a bigger head than cod, so they aren’t as susceptible to bruising as cod when caught by gillnets. Gillnet boats that haul their nets the same day can produce very high-quality Atlantic pollock. Keep in mind that a large percentage of Atlantic pollock caught in the United States and Canada is landed by gillnet boats.

The best time to feature fresh Atlantic pollock is in late June or November. In June, however, the fish can be soft, so pay extra attention to quality. In late November, the quality of the fish is very high, and landings are normally heavy, which drives prices down.

As far as quality goes, summer is normally the worst time, as the quality of gillnetted fish, which soak in the relatively warm water, can suffer.

Keep in mind that Atlantic pollock, because of their higher fat

content, have a shorter shelf life than cod. Under ideal conditions, cod will hold up for 14 days after it’s caught, while Atlantic pollock are good for 10 to 12 days at best.

Culinary notes 

Sure, Atlantic pollock makes good fish and chips, but it works well out of the fryer, too. Because it has about a third more fat than cod, it’s also a bit more forgiving and flavorful. If color is an issue, try using deep-skinned pollock, as it will cook up more white.

A versatile fish, Atlantic pollock can be used in any recipe that calls for cod or haddock or a similar whitefish. If you want to take it upscale, try pairing it with a more expensive shellfish, like shrimp.

If you’re not comfortable menuing pollock, or if you don’t want to explain to your customers what saithe is, use a generic description such as Thai Seafood Salad or Braised Whitefish Florentine.

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