Clams 

The “best-managed fishery in the United States” may also be one of the most profitable

In contrast to the contentious chaos surrounding many East Coast fisheries, all is calm on the clam front. Consider the fishery for surf clams, for example, by far the largest and most valuable clam fishery in the United States.

Managed since 1990 under an Individual Transferable Quota (ITQ) system, the surf clam fishery is the “best managed fishery in the United States,” concluded fisheries scientists from the National Marine Fisheries Service in a recent report.

Since the ITQ system came into effect, the number of boats in the fishery has declined from more than 125 to about 30. Instead of racing to catch clams a few months a year (and sometimes sinking in the process), the remaining boats fish year-round at a leisurely pace, returning to port when the weather is bad.

And they’re catching more clams. Lots more clams. In addition to being the best-managed U.S. fishery, surf clams may also be the most profitable one.

The surf clam quota was raised in 2002 to 3.1 million bushels, the highest level since the fishery went to ITQs.

But the number of plants that process surf clams has declined. Today, there are just five big companies, some of which now own their own fishing boats and quotas. As a result, both boats and plants are able to operate very efficiently on a year-round basis.    

The 2002 quota for ocean quahogs, which is also managed under the same ITQ system, is even larger at 4.5 million bushels. Harvesting that much is unlikely, however, because the boats don’t have to catch them if they don’t want to.

Ocean quahogs are slow-growing animals (they can live to an age of 200 years) and are found in deeper water than surf clams. Their meat is darker and has a sharper, clammier taste, making them worth less than the lighter-colored, milder-tasting surf clam.

They are also harder to catch. When fuel prices are high, boats only fish ocean quahogs when they can find them in high concentrations. 

While not as profitable, other East Coast clam fisheries continue to operate with minimal confrontation and controversy. The fisheries for both hard clams — marketed under a variety of names, depending on their size — and soft clams, remain buffeted by seasonal swings in supply and demand.

This is the case especially for soft clams, the staple item of summer clambakes and clam shacks along New England’s coastal highways.

In the case of hard clams, a handful of aquaculture operations in Chesapeake Bay and on the west coast of Florida have added more stability to supplies, but annual harvests can still fluctuate widely from state to state.

In most years, though, New York and New Jersey produce almost half of the annual production of about 5,000 metric tons of meats.

On the West Coast, harvests of Manila clams have remained relatively stable at about 400 metric tons of meats a year. For the few privileged companies that have leases on suitable bottom in Puget Sound, Manilas are also very profitable. By most estimates, it costs about $1.50 to grow a pound of Manilas, which sells for about $2.50 to distributors.

Supply outlook

 With another increase in the quota in 2002, the supply outlook for surf clams is excellent. Long term, both the surf clam and ocean quahog resources off the northeastern United States are in excellent shape. The main challenge for processors will be finding markets for all the clams they can catch.

A warm winter and a cool economy resulted in periodic gluts of hard clams on the East Coast this spring. Diggers and dealers were hoping that a strong summer season would put supplies more in balance with demand, but a serious summer swoon in stock prices could curb consumers’ appetite for eating out.

Supplies of imported clams have been relatively stable, although imports of live clams from Canada were up 10 percent through May to about 1,100 metric tons (live weight).

Price trends

With supplies in line with demand, clam prices have been stable, although prices for East Coast hard and soft clams have fluctuated with seasonal demand. 

The gallon price for surf clam strips has ranged between $16 and $17 for more than a year, and prices should remain in that range in the near future, unless processors decide they need to lower the price to move more volume.

Hard-clam prices have followed typical seasonal swings, with the Fulton Fish Market price for littlenecks rising from a low of $85 per bushel to $115 this July during the peak summer season. Cherrystones fluctuated from a low of $27 per bushel to a high of $30.

Soft clam prices swung from a winter low of $90 per bushel to a high this July of $120. Manila clam prices have held steady at $2.30 to $2.50 a pound. 

Don’t expect any big surprises with clam prices: 2003 should end up looking a lot like 2002, which looked a lot like 2001. You get the idea.  

Buying tips

The trick to buying clams is getting accurate weight, which is not easy when you’re buying volume measurements like bushels. If you can, try to buy based on either counts or pounds.

When buying surf clams and ocean quahogs, be aware that many processors soak their clams in tripolyphosphate and pack them in water, so compare quality from supplier to supplier because the quality and net weight can vary more than you would think.

Keep in mind that the shelf life and meat yield of most clams declines after they spawn, which is in the summer in most cases. With most clams, quality is highest and prices (value) are lowest during the winter.

Culinary notes

It’s hard to think of something that you can’t do to a clam. You can fry clams, boil them, steam them, broil them — even grill them. You can also mix chopped clams with butter, spices and cracker crumbs to create a New England culinary delight called a “stuffie.”

One New Jersey surf clam processor has started selling just the foot of the clam, which he recommends for serving with salads.

When it comes to clam cuisine, the only thing limiting you is your imagination.

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